Tiny Look at Tuncurry-Forster

Our stay at Forster/Tuncurry was only 2 nights and Heather at the Fish Co-Op, seemed a little disappointed when I went in to pay for only 2 nights. We arrived on a Saturday and our 'mini- jetty' was adjacent to a waterside park and picnic area. While this was quite an attractive spot and we did benefit from the use of the BBQ facilities the next night, Saturday night was a different experience. The usual afternoon crowd of families and retirees was replaced in the evening by drunks and brawling. The Bloke abruptly switched off our Saturday night TV to make our moored vessel look as dark and as invisible as possible. Luckily, this mob were only interested in being obnoxious amongst themselves and moved on after about an hour of disorder. Whether or not they were moved on by authorities, or dispersed from exhaustion of alcohol supplies, or because they had settled their dispute is hard to say. We just kept a low profile and were thankful when it was over. With docking excitement and now this, The Bloke was truly 'over it'!

This area is the ocean gateway to a colossal body of lakes and fish are everywhere to be seen against the sandy sea bed, as are armies of people with rods on the river banks, jetties and scores of runabouts.

The pelicans, too lazy to move away, shuffled and shuffled 

as their sandbank diminished in the rising tide.

A long low bridge links the two towns of Forster and Tuncurry but it's evident that Forster is the more prosperous and attractive big sister. The southern town of Forster has a more attractive and hilly terrain, hosts the funkier shops and cafe strip and more medium rise tourist timeshare blocks. One thing is clear on either shore, this is 'Retirement Central'.

View into the hinterland and vast lakes.

 View to Tuncurry from Forster

Having our base in Tuncurry was very convenient for a spot of provisioning at the new Woolies that looked like it was modeled on the one in Bermagui. We took the opportunity to restock on bulky stuff like loo paper. As a pedestrian you have to take your chances when you can. Aldi, my new favourite supermarket, was somewhere on the Forster side but a bit too far for that kind of malarky.

 

The way in and out looking very benign. 

Hoping it will stay that way tomorrow morning.

 Marine Rescue keeping an eye on us all.

Timing is Everything for Tuncurry Landing

The Bloke here,

"Note to self" DO NOT come into a river on an outgoing tide. When you turn downstream the boat picks up speed, goes sideways and hunts any fixed object it can hit. Turning a boat in a narrow waterway when you do not really know the depths and while the boat is picking up speed and seeking destruction, is not good for the heart rate. We had to land Zofia onto a small jetty, about 4 meters wide, exactly at mid-ships, otherwise the bow or stern would rotate in the current and slam into previously mentioned fixed objects. So moving upstream, with engine at 10,000 revs and doing 0.5 knots, when we would normally be doing 5knots at those revs, and moving sideways at 1 knot, we landed her. Thank you blog mistress for some skillful lassoing of a rather large post, quick reflexes to tighten the lead and for keeping me on track during the entire process. As for me, I am going to have a beer, followed by another and then just to calm the nerves I am going to chase those two with another.

Happy cruising to you all

Leg 59 - Broughton Islands to Forster-Tuncurry

North-easterly winds were forecast for what seemed to be forever, a predicted spell of Southerlies kept being pushed back and back so we elected to push on and make a few sea miles while conditions were going to be super light and cross off another 35nm. Bring out the motor cruiser with optional sails!

Dawn departure.

On the face of things, the swell was negligible and the wind between 5-8knots so progress under motors should have been 6-7 knots but the real factor in determining progress is the East Australian Current (EAC). This is a beast of a thing and seems to run at anything from 2-3 knots to reports of 7 way off-shore! We learned from a Sydney to Hobart sailor that scout boats are sent out by the 'big name' sailing outfits in the the days preceding the Boxing Day start, to go and 'find' the current so that navigation plans take the fullest advantage of the 6-7knots that's on offer. A super fast blue lane to Hobart! So sneaky. The tell tail sign that you've found the current is the water temperature. Our instruments routinely show 31C. Blast it, we are headed against the current but it's not all madness in our method. We'll have the best opportunities to travel in unchallenging conditions, seeing as we are on a timetable. Additionally, we should be well north of the impact zones of any East Coast Lows that are an autumnal feature of NSW weather. We managed to dodge 2 of those last year. No thanks!

The lighthouse at Sugar Loaf Point.

 

The Bloke has planned a number of day hops up this section of the NSW coast. Several are around 35nm. Since we like to compare this distance with trips we are familiar with, it equates to a Mandurah to Rottnest Island trip that can take 6-7 hours. Awesome. No overnighters planned. In any event, our departures on the northern NSW coast are governed by safe/optimal bar crossing times. Time and tide waiting for no one!

Oops there it is! The bar at Fortser-Tuncurry.

The Bloke will be grumpy that I'm not 'all hands on deck'.

Leg 58 - Port Stephens to a Jewel - Broughton Islands.

The social program was beginning to get too busy and lunches ashore were looming large. Time to keep moving north even if it was only 15nm!

Waiving goodbye to crew of Singita.

R2D2? We circled it for a better look en route to Broughton Island.

 

Let's anchor in here - Coalshaft Bay.

A dinghy ride around to Esmerelda Bay and past the 'Spy Glass'. It is possible to snorkel through. That is to say - possible for other people but not us!

Jen, John and the Bloke

  

Providence Bay facing north, the anchoring option during a southerly.

 

View to the mainland from Providence Bay and some fine rock formations.

 

 One of half a dozen not-too-shabby fisherman's shacks. 

 

One of the camping platforms. There are tether points for up to 3 tents per platform. The ecco friendly 'drop toilets' a little climb away.

 John , our adopted guide, checking out the waterfall in Esmerelda Cove.

It's your natural 'shower'. The water was really sweet!  

The Bloke following Jen across the rock platform.

Eroded rock looking like a slumped brick wall.

 

Rewarding views

The Bloke declined going to the very top due to a heart condition. He's paranoid about snakes and we had to trek across a barely-defined path and on top of Shearwater (Mutton Bird) burrows. They are known to co-habit with snakes. He and I both felt that our hearts might unhinge our chests at anytime for the heavy beating! The burrows were everywhere although no birds were evident during the day. Night time was another story. We could hear the chicks mewing and the adults must have been attracted to our masthead light and continually crashed into our rigging until we turned it off and lit a lantern in our cockpit in lieu.

Esmerelda Bay in the foreground. 

Our yachts anchored in Coalshaft Bay beyond, out of the way of the NE wind.

On top of our part of the world today.

Refueling in Style at the Soldier Point Marina

Having been guests for 1 week entitled us to a loyalty card. On offer was discounted fuel and food! We didn't need much encouragement and needing some water, a tiny bit of diesel and a pumpout, a visit back to Soldiers Point Marina was a 'no-brainer.'

Timing was important as a high water and a slackening in the current were ideal and these coincided with 'coffee time'. What is generally a dreary task was suddenly going to be a pleasure.

 

Flower tubs and art works.

The most attractive fuel wharf you are ever likely to visit!

 

 Bloke with the big hose, taking care of 'business'. Filling up the water and chatting to Darrell, the Marina Manager. So friendly and welcoming. We were even given the morning paper!

Fame Cove - Port Stephens

We visited this little gem multiple times. It's home to 5 well spaced public moorings with room for anchoring between. A little wrap-around cove and only open from the west, it's a great place to shelter from stronger winds from most prevailing directions. As a bonus, no swell can creep in and there is no annoyance from passing boats, water skiers or jet skis. Oh happy day!

Very reminiscent of a the bays around Pittwater and the Hawksbury River.

The Bloke ensured that our visits here would not be too lonely or isolated by at various times, inviting all the other boats to 5ers on board Zofia.

Visitor alert!

 

Xamala, a lovely aluminium yacht from Brisbane

 

 In the calmer conditions it was possible to try some water sports

On one occasion, former marina neighbours from our Soldiers Point Marina visit came to find us, bringing with them a bucket of prawns for a shared lunch! It's only a nautical mile away.

 Pam and Arthur

One of the drawbacks to this little piece of paradise is too little breeze. This is good in a storm but not so on hot days. We were sternly informed, multiple times, that this is a breeding place for bull sharks, so a cooling dip suddenly fell off our radar. Flies were not a problem during our first couple of visits but March Flies and then Sand Flies became a torment by the end of February. I needed to escape to overcome sever allergic reactions with some bites swelling to the size of a biscuit. A pity, but proof that you can have too much of a good thing!

No Movements on a Sunday

"There's no movements on a Sunday" declared the Bloke! So let's unpack that thought and reveal the truth.

Our younger son was to be in Newcastle for a week and being only a 25nm trip away, how could we not return to 'Newie' (which we like so much) to see him during his off-duty hours in the evenings! 

We timed our return to coincide with favourable winds and as usual the forecast, baseless expectations and reality were at odds and we ended up motoring most of the way. En route we made a small detour to say hello to team Casablanca who were headed for Port Stephens from Lake Macquarie.

   

Casablanca emerged first as a signal on the AIS being one of our 'favourites'.

We both diverted so we could exchange some greetings across the water.

As we neared Newcastle, the Bloke declared that we probably wouldn't be worried by too many AIS signals from shipping as it was a Sunday. We discovered, days of the week mean nothing when it comes to Port movements but the tide situation is EVERYTHING. They push a many boats in and out as they possibly can through the high tide. Day or night.

 

Zofia with the yellow arrow wind indicator.

To begin with, the dredge stood off; a sure sign they knew something that we didn't. Then the Bloke observed one of the biggest ships he'd ever seen being directed through the heads. It was soon followed by another. The Pilots were being plucked off one ship and rapidly dropped on to the next. Tugs came out to standby for incoming ships. One headed straight for us as if to nudge us out of the way. 

B I G !!

 A vessel with attitude.

We noticed one of the 10 ships anchored off-shore preparing to move in and had to make a calculation as to how fast they'd be in the heads. We reckoned that they were unlikely to reach full speed in the short distance and would be delayed slightly by the arrival of the Pilot. So we made a run for it to get up the harbour ahead of the next ship. The NCYC racing fleet seized the opportunity to get out to sea while there was the slimmest of chances. We all only just made it. It's definitely the quick and the dead around here!

One ship headed out, followed by the NCYC race fleet, ahead of the next ship inbound.

The helicopter was shuttling the Pilot between ships too.

 

 Always nice to toast the safe completion of a passage.

Back in 'Newie' for 1 week.