Beautiful Bermagui - A Memory From 2015

Being from Western Australia we were not familiar with a 'East Coast Low', an appraisal of Meteye and Predictwind however, told us that this was not going to be pleasant. Having left Eden and arrived in Bermagui a couple of days prior to the low intensifying, we decided to stay put. What a good decision. Bermagui provides an excellent safe haven in Southerly weather. But I jump the gun, let's go back to the beginning and how we came to be in Bermagui.

We left Western Australia more than 24 months ago,  sailed across the Great Australian Bight and then the south coast of Australia throughout the winter of 2014.  We arrived in Hobart at the start of summer and looked forward to some warm summer cruising. You know the stuff,  light breezes, sunny days and wondrous happy hours. Well one out of three ain't bad. The friendship in Tasmania was legendary and the happy hours, drinks and dinners were a highlight of our trip. The weather on the other hand was not as expected and often we found ourselves, along with others, hiding from low pressure systems and cold fronts that brought rain and high winds. Being cruising sailors and having time on our side, we were not disappointed and just look forward to better weather which always follows bad weather. Come March, we decided it was time to head north across Bass Strait and find the warm autumn weather talked about by other sailors.

Lakes Entrance provided still waters and a couple of sunny days but we again found ourselves hiding from some intense low pressure systems. More drinks and hanging on ensued, so one out of three ain't bad. Leaving Lakes Entrance, Eden was our aim and it did not disappoint. More sunny days and calm weather followed and we really started to think that we had 'turned the corner' more than just geographically.  Finally! Better weather, clear skies and rising temperatures. Without a reason to rush up the east coast, we made a plan to visit small harbours and anchorages and enjoy some autumn cruising during ,what is typically, a meteorologically 'settled period'.

Bermagui was our next destination and a call to Sue at the Burmagui Co-Op confirmed that we could raft up to the disused fishing vessel Gracy-M. The council had constructed a new marina section but it was not yet in use. A visit to their web-cam assured us that it should not be difficult to enter the harbour. We arrived in mild conditions with a 10 to 12 knot Southerly and a two metre swell. The entry is well marked and the leads provided an excellent guide into this very protected harbour. The Co-Op jetty is immediately ahead of you when you enter and is overlooked by the local VMR office. The enthusiastic and professional operator talked us in and even came down to catch our lines. This was a great introduction to what was to be a very pleasant stay.

Zofia rafted up between the Gracy-M and "Bad Cat" on the Co-Op Wharf

We were not alone as Bad Cat had followed us up from Eden and also choosing a Bumagui stop-over were quickly rafted up against Zofia. This would prove to be fortunate for two reasons. Firstly, they were great company and secondly they provide additional protection for what was to come. What was coming was a 'East Coast Low', in fact one of the most intense systems  of it's type in known history. The storms that centered on Sydney produced widespread damage and tragically loss of life too. Imagine how bad the seas were, that a cruise liner was forced to stand-off out to sea beyond the Sydney Heads due to 15-17m seas! For Bermagui, this was translated into 40+ knot winds from the south and 4 -5 metre swells. Bermagui harbour took all this in it stride. We experienced only a small amount of surge on the jetty and Zofia got a good wash. Due to an accident of geography the Co-Op jetty faces North/South. The Co-Op building, a wide two-story structure on the southern end of this jetty, provided excellent protection from the strong winds.  Bermagui is also in a wind shadow provided by its hinterland, so our position was well protected and safe.

East Coast low approaches and the swell builds to 5 metres and closing out the harbour entrance.

The Bermagui Breakers newest supporter

With our safety assured we were free to explore Beautiful Burmagui and experience the warm friendly welcome provided by the locals. Knowing we would be staying a while, we attended the Saturday football match to barrack for the Bermagui Breakers and cemented our place in the hearts of the locals. A good day at the football was followed by Happy Hour at the Oyster Bar in the company of the Bad Cat crew. Reasonably priced wine and $12 a dozen for delicious oysters was just what ardent Breakers supporters needed. Then came Sunday and what better to do than a roast Sunday lunch. The crew of Bad Cat were willing participants and combined resources culminated in a feast of roast pork and vegetables followed by poached pears in chocolate sauce. Either it was the soporific effect of the meal, or perhaps the several bottles of wine, but for some reason we all forgot about the storm raging outside and hunkered down to pleasant and stimulating conversation; oblivious to the rain and wind.

With ANZAC day approaching we decided to stay, however, our Storm buddies saw a break in the weather as an opportunity to sail further north. We bid farewell to Bad Cat with heavy hearts. Our friendship had been forged in the storm and the delights of Burmagui and we doubt that any of us will forget this particular 'East Coast Low'. Burmagui had welcomed and protected us, its people are friendly and it has all the services that a cruising sailor would require. We doubt that we will come this way again as our course is set to round Australia, but you might wander this way, and if you do we strongly recommend that you visit Beautiful Burmagui.


Bermagui Fact Sheet

Bermagui is a small harbour comprising the Co-op Jetty as well as a new marina with floating pontoons. There is water and power available on both as well as clean and spacious showers at the Co-op building. The town has two supermarkets including the new and reputed to be most-expensive-to-construct Woolworths, several excellent coffee shops (our favourite was a hipsters one called Mr Jones), bakery, laundry, an excellent Italian restaurant in the Co-op building as well as superb clothing store (the Pineapple House) at the harbour.
There is a small Chandler and haul-out facility, large Mitre-10 hardware store, plus garages for fuel and gas. The Country Club is also near the marina and for the sports minded, Bowls, Tennis and Golf are on offer.
Bermagui is the closest port to the edge of the continental shelf along this part of the coast and is therefore a popular departure point for game fishers.