Pancake Creek Paradise

For us, this stopover at Pancake Creek was a paradise but for the early settlers who were tasked with manning the lighthouse on the nearby Bustard Head, it must have been hell on earth. The headstones in the small cemetery close to the lighthouse and associated outbuildings, give clues to what transpired - Drownings at sea due to navigational hazards. Women drowning in their long skirts while transferring from vessels to shore. Babies succumbing to disease and women taking their own lives in sheer desperation of the desolate life and hardship. A widow of a drowned sea captain living a long widowhood then being returned after death to be buried with her beloved. For the insights into a time gone before, we have Stuart Buchanan to thank. It's been his mission to not only restore the lighthouse and surrounds but to be a caretaker and storyteller for this historic site (see Lighthouse of Tragedy: The Story of Bustard Head Lighthouse, Queensland's First Coast Light  - Stuart Buchanan - Google Books )  It had all been abandoned except for the modern, economical digitised and electronic signalling devices. Now it's been painstakingly restored for us to connect and be fascinated. Unfortunately, Stuart was away the day we visited. I had my $10 donation in my pocket in the expectation he'd be there. Maybe next time?

A decent sized tidal variation of well over 1m meant that we'd be sheltered from northerly winds by a drying sandbank that rose up alongside our anchored vessel. We hadn't had such a vivid demonstration of the tidal 'elevator' effect since Stanley and Wynyard on the northern coast of Tasmania.

 Anchored deep in Pancake Creek.

 

With numerous other yachts stopping over in this location for a few days, we had plenty of play friends, and amusements. The walk to the lighthouse and beyond, to gaze at Jenny Lind Creek on the other side of Bustard Head, were just some of activities. Kayaking with a group of ladies around the creek and drying streams also made for some fun and cementing of some new friendships.

A view across Jenny Lind creek on the southern side of Bustard Head

Visitor dinghies hanging out from the stern during sundowners

The Bloke sitting on the stern watching me drift/ paddle away in the current

SV Starship at anchor

 

A strong tidal flow whisked me away very quickly

An all-girl kayaking trip around the ebbing tidal streams.

Even if we disappeared from view, the boys knew exactly where we were from our chatter!

We took turns to help tow one of the girls who was trialing an inflatable kayak.

Her particular brand was a bit of a dud and was like a bendy banana!