Live Track - Past 90 daysDistance Sailed to date - 15,383Nm
Download Email Maximum of 160 characters and you cannot include images, as this is a Short Message Service only. Download
Download our track Email us OffShore SMS us OffShore Download GoEast tracks

Monday, October 2, 2017

Getting Your Papers in Order

The Bloke and I nearly got a proper fright. We'd arrived into Vanuatu via Port Resolution in Tanna and had obtained special permission from Vanuatu Border to do so. Port Resolution is not the designated arrival port on Tanna. Lenakel is the standard port and where there is  a Customs/Immigration office. Our confirmation document was very friendly and requested only that we call into the Customs Office when we reached Port Vila to offer some identification details of our vessel and to collect our Inter-Island Cruising Pass. All fees would be calculated and payable prior departure from Vanuatu, it said. Also, would we please refrain from landing any items ashore that might be subject to Quarantine. No problemo.

Abandoned and wrecked Pilot vessel - oooops

On arrival in Port Vila we had visited Customs as per their request and to collect an Inter-Island Cruising Pass. Next Quarantine and Immigration for good measure, despite the emailed clearance document not specifying that we should do so. It stood to reason however that Immigration in particular, would need to stamp their 'chop' in our passports, if not ask for more Vatu for the pleasure! So in a way, it's only down to our common sense that a Visa was noted at all in our Passports. Other crews who'd also got permits to arrive in Port Resolution were adamant that it was not necessary (they should be glad we persuaded them otherwise). We were granted a 30 day Visitor Visa. No charge. This despite having noted on ALL forms that our estimated length of stay would be around 2 months. Even pointing this out to our friend 'Lyn' at the immigration counter did not elicit a 'Would you like to apply and pay for an extended Visa right now?" (6,000Vt each). It would have saved so much angst in the long run but probably would have required more work and receipting of money. Poor lady was highly stressed. Her whole building was a 'war zone' due to extensive building renovations. Entering the former French Embassy compound was like stepping into a film set of the Fall of Saigon!


On reaching Luganville on Espiritu Santo, the largest of all islands in Vanuatu and the administrative centre of the northern zone, we promptly went to visit Customs (as required) to present our still sealed Inter-Island Cruising Pass. Had we have wanted to cruise further north we would have been issued a new one for the areas north from Luganville. Despite 37 years as a nation Santo still likes to control Santo and its northern zone. Money collected in Santo stays in Santo. Money collected in Vila stays there. The Inter-Island Cruising Pass has more to do with flexing administrative muscles than anything else as far as we can tell.
The Bloke, after a trim at a hair salon called Head Hunter.
Local humour hahahah!

While on this job we also visited the Ports Office and Immigration to get their forms so we could pre-fill them, check the sequence of office visits and discuss the ramifications of leaving on Monday rather than Friday - in particular because our Visas were valid only until Friday. We actually didn't actually want to leave until first thing Monday (at the earliest) due to a period of ‘reinforced’ Trade Winds. Timing was weather dependent. Not one office indicated a problem. Port fees would be calculated at 100Vt per day beyond the first 30 days (which attract a base fee of 7,800Vt). Customs would allow us to clear out on Friday afternoon after 1:00pm allowing for a ‘stupid o’clock’ departure on the Monday morning. Immigration were more focused on the fact we 'migh't leave on Friday, the last day before our visa ran out. No helpful suggestions or warnings about what the ramifications might be if we did not leave on Friday. We felt comforted that we knew to visit Ports first and pay 7,800Vt + pro-rata Vt , then Customs who would provide permission to leave if we had the appropriate Ports Fee Receipt. Immigration would be the last office to visit and is conveniently located upstairs next to the Ports Office, thus completing a circuit. We felt confident we knew what we needed to do.

Customs counter

The Bloke continued his twice daily ritual of downloading weather forecasts and routes from Predictwind and determined 'Friday no good'. We would take a mooring next to Aore Island and sit out the extended period of 'reinforced trades'. Departure would more likely be later in the following week.
Some local artifacts. 
Not even given a 2nd thought. An impossible idea for Australian Biosecurity.

To our horror we learned that some of our cruising partners had been lulled into the same false sense of relaxation with regards their Visas with expensive consequences. While attempting the clear out and visiting the final office in the loop (Immigration), they discovered that they would not be paying 'extra' as we'd all supposed. They were actually slapped with fines for overstaying 13 days + the cost of a Visa extension. What about our 2 days that looked like stretching to 4?

All the crews who had used an agent to clear in at Port Vila had automatically obtained an extended Visa of 4 months. The agents obviously know to demand them, since those of us who’d managed our own arrival clearance were only given a free 30 day Visa. The extended one required taking and receipting money which equates to more work. We'd seen this type of thing in Brunei. A trap for young players and we'll know for next time.

Water Taxi

What to do? We’d overstayed! Sunday became a nervous day. Nothing could be done until the next day. We gathered all our documents and emails etc... in case we needed them and headed off first thing on Monday morning to see Hudson, the boss man at the Immigration Office. The Bloke did the talking while I sat on a bench looking as small as I could. Could he please help us? The Bloke asked. We didn't know what to do. We were unable to leave when we’d hoped because of the weather, The Bloke explained. Although we didn’t know it at the time, bad weather is the ONLY mitigating circumstance for a visa extension after your Visa has expired. Hudson made us confirm that bad weather was the reason for overstaying. Nodding wildly in agreement was our response. Absolutely. Hudson handed us a form to take to the Government Cashier down the road while telling us the penalty we were avoiding. OMG!  We took a taxi to the Cashiers Office and back again pronto stopping only at an ATM for the cash. Quick, quick before Hudson changed his mind. He was the same person who'd imposed the fine on our friends on Friday. 12,000Vt later (approx $120AU) we were legal for a further 30 days in Vanuatu even if we only needed a couple more days. Phew!

Two days later, our ‘clearing out’ circuit was completed in under an hour and a half! The now  improved weather resulted in at least half a dozen crews from foreign flagged yachts marching about on the same mission.

To help celebrate the completion of all formalities and wish us well for the homeward leg of our trip, we had lunch with Hugh and Julianna from Sans Souci. A splendid finale for out first ever overseas tour aboard Zofia.


No comments:

Post a Comment