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Saturday, June 24, 2017

Having a Vao of a Time

Our initial anchorage at Ile Des Pins was in Kanumara Bay in order to escape the winds with the westerly component. It wasn't until the next morning that we relocated to Kuto Bay around a little headland to benefit from a wind shift. Unfortunately the swell accompanied us to begin with too.

Carved totems at the head of the jetty at Kuto Bay

Anchoring position in Kuto Bay, just around from Kanumara Bay

A walk ashore by SpAnna and myself confirmed that the local General Store offered slim pickings once our baguette requirements were filled.  Apparently, better supplies of fresh produce could be obtained at the Saturday morning markets held in Vao just 7km down the road. Needing to confirm 2 tickets back to Noumea for the Sunday afternoon local ferry, meant waiting for the Saturday morning ferry to arrive at 9am. By the time a 6,000XPF per ticket price was confirmed for the next day and a taxi ride to the village of Vao negotiated, the remaining produce at the market was little more than the 'slim pickings' of the General Store - some yams, potatoes, coconuts, carrots and cabbage but with bonus lemons and limes.

 This view towards Ilot Brosse (Alcmene) barely does this vista justice.

Having requested that the taxi driver return for us in 2 hours meant that we had some time to wander around the village lanes and look at the civic buildings along the main road. As a shopping expedition it was a bit of a flop but we enjoyed the festive atmosphere with a cracking band playing reggae music under a marque. Dreadlocks and reggae culture seem popular in New Caledonia. Listening to Sting's "Englishman in New York" sung in French and to a reggae beat was most interesting!

Geoffers and SpAnna pose in the 'fenced' area around the war memorial in Vao.
Note the use of whole tree branches and totems to form a perimeter.

Missionaries in the late 1800's established a church and school in Vao. The architecture is very French but with a Melanesian touch.


The Church Tower at the rear

The nearby school grounds contained a mixture of building styles and building materials

 
A Presbytery situated adjacent to the church, was quite grand and the entrance to the grounds marked by two serious looking carved warrior figures - not the ones wearing shorts!

 
Locals are perhaps called to prayer by a pair of ornate traditional bells decorated with a decorative motif and christian symbols. The name 'Hortense' was included in the casting of one of the bells.

We couldn't guess what had happened to this building but it was thoroughly propped up.


We learned that this neatly raked area with shade areas and stumps to sit on opposite the Mairie (Town Hall) was the local 'coffee shop'. Owing to all the morning's activities being centred at the market place, it was 'closed'.

This administration centre/ Town Hall had a brand new roof and was in a local style.

We returned to the anchorage from this little excursion with a bag of endive, some limes and lemons as my trophies for the day. Scurvy won't be visiting SV Zofia this week at least.


2 comments:

  1. I wanted to thank you for sharing your adventures and those amazing pictures. I am a construction worker with a broken leg and not used to being stuck in the house. Those pictures made me feel like I was there and seeing the sights with you. I could practically smell the baguettes and feel the water. What a glorious adventure.

    Franklin Stewart @ Muller Exteriors

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    Replies
    1. A year on, we hope you've recovered from your broken leg and are out and about once more :D

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