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Tuesday, August 29, 2017

Port Resolution

Just like Captain Cook we've been drawn to the island of Tanna in the southern part of the Vanuatu Island group by Mount Yasur. It's no ordinary hill or mountain it's a volcano! The meaning of it's name in the local languages is 'God' or 'creator'. Evidently Captain Cook and his ship's company aboard The Resolution could see the volcanic activity from way out to sea and came into the bay we are now visiting that now commemorates this visit -Port Resolution, for a closer look. We on the other hand approached Tanna from the west and although we romantically imagined that we too might be witness to Mt Yasur's activity at night, it was shielded from view by a taller mountain on the western side.


In reality our visit was absolutely against The Bloke's instincts. "You want to do what!". "Climb up an active volcano?" Well, actually yes and because The Bloke still loves me after 40 years, he agreed to take me. He couldn't justify it any other way. Anyhow, if it was good enough for Captain Cook it should be good enough for us.

We had already obtained prior permission from Vanuatu authorities to enter Vanuatu through a non-specified port by emailing forms as instructed http://customsinlandrevenue.gov.vu/index.php/travellers/yacht-clearance. Happily, the approvals arrived ahead of our departure from Ouvea. The official entry port for Tanna is Lenakel on the Western side of Tanna and boy oh boy, were we glad we didn't consider it a viable option.

Supply ship in Lenakel 'harbour'

When we arrived at Port Resolution there were already 24 other yachts in the bay. Ten were with a rally organised by the New Zealand based Island Cruising Association. They too were here for the volcano tour. We anchored ourselves at the entrance to the bay, too tired to go in deeper for the possibility of a quieter spot. From our vantage point it really didn't look like anyone was rolling any less in what the cruising guide calls 'an active' anchorage. The swell does funnel in here but sometimes it's less rolly. It's not a game changer and we haven't been tempted to move even when the ICA boats left, as a fleet, at dawn


Holding in Port Resolution is good. Our anchor locked in immediately. This was very reassuring when we knew that we would be going ashore for an extended time. 'Barnacle Brian' need not stay on board to mind the boat. The most noteworthy things about this anchorage are the overwhelming friendliness of the locals and the state of our top-decks being deluged by volcanic ash. The Bloke who prides himself with his boat maintenance efforts, scrubbing with a toothbrush, wiping and polishing obsessively etc..., has almost been in his own molten meltdown state. Volcanic ash isn't bushfire ash or bulldust. It's not dust either. It's black grit, a little bit sparkly and highly abrasive!

Drifts of black grit piling up on the toe rail
The wind that made our trip possible from Ouvea to here is the the prevailing SE trade causing an unusually large amount of ash to fall in Port Resolution. Now that the wind is back to it's usual station, the deluge will be less. Perhaps we could even consider doing some laundry?

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