View of Mt Yasur from the ash plane.
Arriving in Port Resolution to a bay already occupied by 24 other yachts, confirmed that I was not the only loony that thought a visit to an active volcano would be an interesting thing to do - it's big business and immensely popular. The New Zealand based Island Cruising Association (ICA) had incorporated a volcano tour in their Vanuatu Rally itinerary and accounted for 10 of the yachts in Port Resolution when we arrived.
The Bloke seated in the back of the ute with Stanley and Forfar
A dusty and bone jarring day.
The locals are very attentive of the arrival of every new visiting yacht and we didn't even need to visit the Port Resolution Yacht Club to find someone to arrange transport. Werri, who is very entrepreneurial and runs the 'Yacht Club' and associated holiday cottages, owns a twin cab utility vehicle and became the 'wheels' for our group of 8 - meaning that adding cousin Stanley to the passenger manifest was to make us 10 aboard in total. Lucky for me I was in the cabin while The Bloke rode 'coach class' in the tray with 4 others. A dusty and gritty day-long experience which included the long trip across the island (and ash plain) to Lenakel before our tour commenced at 4pm for the sunset volcano tour. There is also the option of a dawn or middle-of-the-day tour. The tour cost is 950Vt per person and is a fixed price payable in cash and part of the reason for our cross-island trip to Lenakal to obtain sufficient local currency. We had only 300AUD worth of Vt and needed to exchange whatever other cash we had at the bank (no ATM). Only the resort near the airport has the equipment to draw from overseas accounts and will take a 20% commission for the trouble!
Entry statement at the base of the volcano tour
Mt Yasur plays a significant part in local beliefs and culture and the entry statement to the visitor assembly area is flanked by carved totems. It also injects significant cash into their economy so that Tanna is considered a wealthy island. A roster of locals provide the personnel for dancing and guides, plus any owner of a twin cab ute in the district is expected to be available to provide transport.
Prior to being taken on a 10 minute ute ride up the base of the volcano to then ascend the final 200m on foot, we witnessed a traditional Custom Dance followed by a presentation of a flower garland signifying that the Chief had sought and been granted permission from the Gods to visit the crater.
Everyone received a floral garland ... Yes, even The Bloke struggling to look upbeat about what he's about to do.
Walking up. It was quite steep towards the top.
We were informed that we'd need warm clothing, a hat plus a torch. It was really cold up top and the hat was to help keep ash/grit from getting in our hair. We would be ending the tour after dark hence the torch to light our walk back to the car park. Although there was a letterbox to post a card from the volcano (what fun) we were unable to. They locals haven't yet worked out that they could sell them at the entrance when paying for the ticket!
Fun fact: the rocks in the above photo have been arranged by the local guides to create a path and delineate the 'safe' zone. There are many others randomly scattered about courtesy of the volcano's activity and are explosively delivered at 2,000C - probably a tad hotter than Mum's apple pies!
The Bloke had trouble believing what he was doing and wondering how soon it would be before he could return to the vehicles waiting below to deliver us back to the reception area. It wasn't to be until after dark.
The volcano's activity is monitored by a number seismic stations and a 5 point scale applied. Levels 1-2 are deemed OK for visits to occur although a westerly wind will negate that as the 'ash' would blow directly over the viewing areas. At level 4, not only would tours be cancelled but villages would also be evacuated.
Every time the volcano vented it was weirdly compelling and I found myself drawn to lean in for a closer look. Not so the Bloke, who pleaded with me to "Come away!".
Daredevils silhouetted on the top ridge
At dusk, the really adventurous visitors were led up to a 3rd viewing vantage point for a better view of the magma in the crater. This way way beyond even my comfort zone. It was a steep climb along the narrow ridge and very windy. Half way along I had trouble even standing up so I took a few photos and returned to sit with The Bloke who was by this time, waiting with a group of other nervous people. One was a dentist with an volunteer dental team. He'd been up 15 times he said, but never left the more protected area or stood in any of the 'viewing' zones. He'd witnessed red hot rocks landing over the heads of observers in all 3 of the designated viewing zones and wouldn't proceed beyond this point. A ghoulish story was shared about a Japanese tourist who died on this very volcano a few years back, his torso severed and cauterized in two by a hot projectile rock!
What surprised us was that there was no appreciable radiated heat standing at the the top of crater; it didn't smell of sulphur, nor did the ground shake when there was a venting.
The Bloke was among the first to return to our vehicle for the trip back to the assembly area where a spread of cut fruit, biscuits and coconut waited. A few much stiffer nerve settling libations were gulped on return to Zofia!!
This fabulous photo was taken from the uppermost viewing zone by Forfar Petrie, SV Squander.
It's the 'money shot'!
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