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Tuesday, July 25, 2017

Buying Alcohol in Noumea

Liquor rules are crazy here! On Monday to Wednesday you can by wine, beer and spirits from grocery stores between 7:30 am to 7pm. On Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday you can only buy wine, beer, and spirits up until 12 noon. After that, you cannot buy beer or spirits ANYWHERE in New Caledonia. HOWEVER...there are wine stores everywhere so Friday, Saturday and Sunday you can buy between 8 or 9 am until 8 pm at night...though on Sunday, the wine stores tend to close at noon; only a few stay open until 5 or so. However, no beer or spirits can be sold by the wine boutiques after noon on Friday, Saturday or Sunday.




Armed with this knowledge it was time to hit Casino Johnson mid morning for a significant re-stock. After 2 months our stocks were severely depleted. Casino and Carrefor are supermarkets in Noumea, and are similar to Coles and Woolies in Australia. Tic, tic, tic. After discovering tinned tomatoes in three locations and returning my 8 cans twice and humming and hahhing over different beers, totally unknown wines French wines, and selecting cheeses out of an inventory of hundreds, I was alarmed to notice that it was already 11:40. Getting to the checkout was urgent if I was to avoid handing back all the alcohol in my trolly and try again tomorrow. Tic, tic, tic.
I selected a queue which didn't seem too long or contain too many large trolly loads like mine. I spotted Julianna had just got through. An organised one I thought, wishing I'd not been so distracted and allowed at least 30 minutes at the check-out instead of merely 20. There was an 'Alcohol-Only' line but without an operator. I gathered together all the alcohol (2dozen beers, a bottle of gin and 3 Cotes du Rhone) figuring that if it came to 12:00 I'd have to surrender them. Two ladies ahead of me kept checking their phones for the precise time. They chatted nervously and gesticulated at the checkout labelled 'Alcohol Only' still without an attendant. The Security personnel kept circulating and pointing at our alcohol purchase ambitions. 10 minutes to go. The ladies included me in their conversation. I could only contribute a "Bon chance" in my halting french and a throat slitting sign with a giggle. We were bonded in distress. Tic, tic, tic.
The older fellow at the head of our queue got his shopping through at last. Only 3 little hand baskets to go. Perhaps I'd just make it; get my alcohol paid before the noon deadline then get the balance of my shop processed? Could be a workable strategy I thought.




Tic, tic, tic. But hold E V E R Y T H I N G ..... an elderly lady appearing from nowhere, and calling out to nobody in particular, "Excusez-moi", pushed past to the head of the queue pointing at the "Prioritaire" sign up above. You could almost hear 3 hearts plummet to the floor. No way would we make our purchases before noon! Damn, damn, double damn, 3 hells and a bugger!! The security guys circled again. My fellow shoppers ranted. Suddenly a lady dressed in a shop uniform Mother Hubbard dress came over to me indicating we three should bring just our alcohol items to the special checkout. Yesssssss! We din't need to be asked a 2nd time. Tic, tic, tic. Dutifull to our newly found solidarity, no one fumbled with their payments. All 3 of us were paid up ahead of the deadline. Yesssss!
I'd abandoned my big trolly guessing that someone would ask me what my intentions were regarding such a full load. Julianna was patiently waiting for me at a bench seat and watchng the show with fascination. I thrust my alcohol into a bag I'd had the presence of mind to bring with me and took my trophy to Julianna for her safekeeping. It's not enough to get to the queue before noon, your alcohol must be paid for AND concealed (and preferably be out of the shop) by noon!



By the time my trolly was processed, all the checkouts were eerily empty. The panic 12 noon deadline had passed. This pantomime is a daily occurrence from Thursday through Sunday.

Job done,a Security chap asked if we had a car seeing as we both had an eye popping volume of shopping. This immediately resolved the 'how to find a taxi' poser facing us. A taxi was requested for us. We had the feeling this performance had been enacted before. An 800XPF taxi ride delivered us back at the marina with the prospect of spending an afternoon 'stowing' our bounty. Cheers to that!




PS The women in Ile Des Pins had alcohol sales of any kind banned there. Some cruiser friends did manage to buy some beer and wine at the resort at Kunemara Bay but it's best not to consider Ile Des Pins as a restocking option.

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