Ship To Nowhere

Returning from our 'Ancestor Cave' visit we were surprised to find a supply vessel anchored off the Williams River. Not only that but it looked like a sizeable number of the village population were assembled on the pebble beach.

Donald and David explained that this was a supply boat from Port Vila and it came a couple of times a month. The people on the beach were intending passengers plus their families seeing them off.



The various fertilizer bags filled with pebbles we'd noticed on the shores earlier were also destined for Port Vila, the rounded river stones being much in demand for traditional cooking.



Since passengers could only be loaded on half a dozen at a time, the process was a lengthy one and we watched for a couple of hours until finally the vessel headed out of the bay. It didn't even get out of sight before it turned back and then anchored.



It remained anchored overnight and at dawn, passengers were being ferried ashore.




A few hours later, what was identified as an engine problem was rectified and the whole embarkation process recommenced. Once they were under way again, we took the opportunity to check AIS. Yup, just as we had guessed - if we encounter one of these 'cruise to nowhere' vessels in coming weeks we'll need to rely on our eye balls. There's no AIS on these rust buckets!

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Dillons Bay, Erromango - Day 2

The locals are filling our program as if we might leave before they've had a chance to show us everything and earn enough gifts. From our standpoint they have set a cracking pace and I don't know that we've been 'on the clock' to this degree in a long while.


At 7am The Bloke was downloading the weather from Predictwind Wind with a 07:30 sched to broadcast to all the boats in the bay. By yesterday morning there were 5 and by yesterday evening 7!


We'd offered to take our sewing machine ashore so that the crew of Navigator could repair a badly torn UV strip on their genoa. They had been beaten up en route from Southport to Vanuatu. 6m seas they said! Frozzie also needed a small fix to prevent further deterioration to their UV strip. David was most obliging and we welcomed the use of a clean concrete floor with a solid table and bench seats.

By 08:00 we were in the dinghy with my Sailrite machine which is herniatigly heavy and a real bitch to lug up the companionway and through the cockpit. Luckily, David, as ever, was on the pebbly beach enthusiastically assisting. He'd never had a sail repair performed in his 'Yacht Club' before. You could see that he was registering it as an additional benefit he could offer passing sailors. This guy is completely 'on the pace' and entrepreneurial. The 3 Navigator crew brought their generator ashore to power my machine and by the time my power board was set up with it's 2 USB ports, mobile phones appeared from thin air for this not-to-be-missed 5 hour charging opportunity marathon. Word spread through the village grape vine pretty fast!


We left the guys to it to focus on getting up the river in the dinghy with my washing at high tide. It's navigable as far as an extensive pebble cascade which is of course where the washing could be done in among the rock pools. If we didn't time it right we'd have trouble crossing the bar.

The river is fed by a natural spring further up the valley. The village water supply is tapped at the head. A group of Aussies from Gladstone visit annually and have set up water pipes so that most family compounds have access to running water.



Theses folk have great access to water despite living in a rain shadow. The river enables the community to water their veggie gardens. They call them their 'gardens' and each family has it's own. The kinds of crops are coconut, banana, guava, pawpaw, casava, taro, manoc, pumpkin and cabbage. There are some mango trees too. It hasn't rained here for 2 months so their irrigation efforts  (hand watering) are critical for their subsistence crops. Some gardens have been fenced in a variety of ways to try and keep wild pigs out. Villagers keep dogs for wild pig management and cats to manage mice near their shops and food stores. The concept of patting and petting animals here is bizarre. All animals earn their keep and are scrawny except for the chickens and pigs which they of course intend to eat.

Banyan Tree

The Bloke dropped me off with 2 weeks worth of washing and returned to the boat for some boat chores. Meantime I had a novel experience rubbing and scrubbing away in the flowing river water in the company of a couple of other yachties. I laid out washed items on rocks midstream until the breeze picked up and a passing, and most helpful local fellow recommended draping stuff on shrubs on the riverbank so it wouldn't blow away and get wet again.

A couple of little girls came to watch and wanted to help with the 'draping' of my stuff. One noticed I had some washing balls in my tub. The pellets inside make a rattle sound. It wasn't long before these were offered to her. She accepted them in a heartbeat and was seen later in the afternoon showing off her bright blue trophies.

While we were washing, a large group of villagers assembled on the riverbank just downstream of the pebble race. My little helper told me there would be a baptism taking place. Actually, it wasn't just one but more like 50. The night before, we'd almost been kept awake by a 2 hour religious sermon (tirade) being broadcast over a PA system somewhere in the village. It was a fire and brimstone lecture from what we could determine from the booming bislama (pigeon english). This guy could talk under wet cement. He never seemed to pause or even to draw breath. This pastor is a Seventh Day Adventist (the locals call them SDA) and only gets to Erromango once or twice per year from the island of Pentecost further north, so they save up the baptisms for a 'job lot'. We just happened to be there to watch them bear witness to their faith. Dressed in European black dress trousers, a white shirt and black tie, the pastor waded out into waist deep water and dunked each of his new white-clad disciples one by one after proclaiming and praying over each one. There was no doubting this chap's commitment. It was really hot and that was backing up from his marathon preaching session the night before.

All ready for an open air screening of religious messages

The poor Bloke had completed his boat jobs and was on his way to help/fetch me when he encountered the mass baptism and felt compelled to stand off rather than paddle past. After a while and resigned to the idea he was in for a long wait, dropped an anchor and sat it out, getting sunburn for his trouble.


It was after 12 when we returned to the the boat. There was washing to hang on the rails and a snack to prepare for our 1pm visit to the kindergarten. A withering pace and we were already a bit buggered from the morning activity. Tick tock.

We didn't want to disappoint Donald who'd arranged the shared meal. In the time available I was a bit pressed to think of what to contribute. I looked in the fridge and one of my food lockers and struck gold. Firstly the wand of mandarins I'd bought in Lenekal and had no hope of finishing - all kids love little mandarins and I had correctly assessed them as a rarity here. The wand presentation is fun too. Next I had some walnuts which are sweet, soft and unheard of. I found a tin of tiny Plumrose cocktail frankfurters which I quickly heated and popped in a thermos, the toothpicks with little flags on made them look like little sailboats. I peeled and chopped a couple of straight-from-the-ground carrots into sticks - also from the Lenakel markets and then the real trophy - A RED APPLE.

Donald

The Bloke watched 10 pairs of 'eyes on stalks' look at what I held in my hand. I quite casually had thought they might not get apples in Dillons Bay very often and wanted them to see it whole rather than sliced. I was more right than I thought. These kids had never ever seen an apple even though their phonetic alphabet starts with 'A is for apple, B is for ball, etc'. I'm sorry I didn't give them a chance to hold it. The slicing was witnessed in total awe and the sharing wildly enthusiastic. It was our last apple on board and I couldn't in a lifetime imagine such happy recipients!

They either don't grow carrots here or never eat them raw, so my 'munch and crunch' selection finished up a huge hit. Our food contribution was the only one intended just for the kids and I had a lot of fun with them. After the food was gone I showed them my 'zebra feet'. I wore sandals while washing in the sun earlier and the tops if my feet had a striped pattern as a consequence. They probably imagine white skinned people are the same colour all over and now they know that it 'ain't necessarily so!

Our day program was far from over. We were all very hot by this stage and ready for a swim. Donald, our 'black' village brother as he called himself, led us through the gardens deeper in the valley up to the water hole for a welcome dip and break from commitments.

It was 4'ish by the time we were returning to our dinghies and it was clear that people were returning from a day's work in their gardens, some women still carrying bunches of canes and pandanus leaves atop their head. Mothers were walking around with babies on their hips soothing them through the 'thunder hour', men and children otherwise invisible all day, were bathing in the river and unwinding in the receding light.

David's wife explaining the dishes

Our day was not yet over but now following a more familiar pattern. We'd organized to go ashore for sunset BYO drinks on David's Yacht Club balcony, to be followed by our pre-booked 500Vt per head feast. By this time, our numbers were 13 heads. A worthwhile exercise for David's family for sure. They made a huge effort and further decorated the clubhouse with branches of coloured foliage and bougainvilleas.

A wonderful, if full day! We are 'off duty' tomorrow and have declined to attend church, all 9 of them!

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Dillons Bay, Erromango - Day 1

Well this place, Dillons Bay, is famous for the fact that in the early 1800's one guy named Williams was killed, his outline etched on a rock, and then cannibalised. Nice work. The missionaries after the 1830's persuaded the locals that this was not so good. Phew -Just in time!




The most southerly Island in the Vanuatu chain is Anatom and it, and the adjacent 'Fantasy Island' , are frequently visited by cruise ships. The next in line is Tanna, famous for it's volcano and coffee. After that is Erromango. It's infamy is cannabalism. Perhaps it's why it is less visited, even today.

We have had another massively overwhelming experience. On arrival, David from the 'Dillons Bay Yacht Club' paddled out in his dugout canoe to welcome us and inform us of our 'visitors program' for the next day! We were more that a little surprised but most pleased in the same breath.


David explained that they had expected the NZ based Island Cruising Association Rally to visit after going to the volcano at Tanna. Instead 15-20 vessels sailed right on past. They were crushed! No matter, we are here now, our party of 3 boats from our Rally later followed by some Aussie/Kiwis on Navigator. After our outing today our number swelled to 5 boats with the arrival of yet another vessel from Port Resolution. The locals are feeling loved again.


We've had a conducted tour of the 'Yacht Club', an introduction to the main Chief (Jason) a visit to the fresh water rock pool, school etc. After lunch we were taken to some caves where ancestors bones are kept. The Bloke was uncharacteristically brave going into one of them. The other involved climbing with the assistance of banyan tree roots, so that was declared a 'pass'. Some of the overhead rocks are held together by the roots of banyan trees. Forget your Occupational Health and Safety rules here!

Paddling over the reef

David standing next tp some banyan tree roots below one of the caves

The Bloke adjusting his head torch preparing to go down among the dead men!

Overall I can't believe what we've got up to on this trip:- trekking, snorkeling, caving, climbing, swimming in rock pools, climbing volcanoes, riding in the back of utes up winding and steep dust tracks. Feeling a bit like Bear Grylls!

Tomorrow, the girls are going to do washing. Very droll except we will do it in their Williams River (yup, casually recalling the guy who got eaten) and we'll smash our laundry against the rocks native style!

67 year old David is the visionary behind the 'Yacht Club'. He understands that they can't attract cruise boats here (lack of infrastructure like a wharf and roads) but yachties like us, will and can come. We are self contained and can bring with us some cash for traded items like fresh produce, meals, visits to caves etc... plus we bring know-how and some practical donations. He has built a little 'club house' using river pebbles and other materials and has been at it since 2007. 10 years. That's persistence for you!


Tomorrow we will use the club house to repair the UV strip on 2 yachts using my sewing machine. In the evening we have arranged for David's wife to prepare a meal for us all for 500Vt each. We'll BYO sundowner drinks. This is a perfect example of the benefit of David's vision. We discovered that he could order us some baked bread too for 150Vt a loaf. We arranged 4 loaves and David delivered it the same evening aboard his dugout! It's hilarious and fabulous in equal measure.

David has asked us for a pair of shorts. Considering that the Bloke is way bigger than David we are unsure what we can come up with. We have a couple of balls for him too since yachties ahead of us, emailed a request. Coincidentally there was a 'special' at the supermarket in Noumea so we were able to buy 2 soccer balls, a rugby and a basket ball to give away during our travels north.

Just before we went ashore yesterday a fisherman in a tinnie called us to the back of the boat. Did we have any 2stroke oil? He was looking at our outboard motor and guessing there was a 50/50 chance it was a 2 stroke motor. He was offering pawpaws or other stuff. We realised later that the pawpaws are highly prized after the last cyclone; need to be tended and watered and might take 2 years before they will fruit. The Bloke asked for some crayfish in return instead. The look on the guys face as Brian handed him 1/2 a container (2L) of oil was priceless. He assured us he would return with crayfish and he wouldn't forget. True to his word, he returned at 8:30pm with a boatcfull of fellow villagers to hand us 2 crayfish, plus a bug (1 cray was a 'Dongara Cray' or what we'd call under-size). The following day, the same fellow, now understanding that crays were a 'currency', made a tour of the other anchored boats wanting to trade crayfish for 5L of petrol. On the ball that one!

Meal in a bucket?

We are having an experience money can't buy!

Cyclone Pam smashed this community of 800 a couple of years ago. It destroyed all their crops. They are subsistence farmers and were completely cut off, even from the community on the other side of the island. They lived off coconuts and vine roots until assistance reached them. A few died of starvation. We are withering at the thought of these hard working people in such hardship. Our near neighbours!



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Port Resolution

Just like Captain Cook we've been drawn to the island of Tanna in the southern part of the Vanuatu Island group by Mount Yasur. It's no ordinary hill or mountain it's a volcano! The meaning of it's name in the local languages is 'God' or 'creator'. Evidently Captain Cook and his ship's company aboard The Resolution could see the volcanic activity from way out to sea and came into the bay we are now visiting that now commemorates this visit -Port Resolution, for a closer look. We on the other hand approached Tanna from the west and although we romantically imagined that we too might be witness to Mt Yasur's activity at night, it was shielded from view by a taller mountain on the western side.


In reality our visit was absolutely against The Bloke's instincts. "You want to do what!". "Climb up an active volcano?" Well, actually yes and because The Bloke still loves me after 40 years, he agreed to take me. He couldn't justify it any other way. Anyhow, if it was good enough for Captain Cook it should be good enough for us.

We had already obtained prior permission from Vanuatu authorities to enter Vanuatu through a non-specified port by emailing forms as instructed http://customsinlandrevenue.gov.vu/index.php/travellers/yacht-clearance. Happily, the approvals arrived ahead of our departure from Ouvea. The official entry port for Tanna is Lenakel on the Western side of Tanna and boy oh boy, were we glad we didn't consider it a viable option.

Supply ship in Lenakel 'harbour'

When we arrived at Port Resolution there were already 24 other yachts in the bay. Ten were with a rally organised by the New Zealand based Island Cruising Association. They too were here for the volcano tour. We anchored ourselves at the entrance to the bay, too tired to go in deeper for the possibility of a quieter spot. From our vantage point it really didn't look like anyone was rolling any less in what the cruising guide calls 'an active' anchorage. The swell does funnel in here but sometimes it's less rolly. It's not a game changer and we haven't been tempted to move even when the ICA boats left, as a fleet, at dawn


Holding in Port Resolution is good. Our anchor locked in immediately. This was very reassuring when we knew that we would be going ashore for an extended time. 'Barnacle Brian' need not stay on board to mind the boat. The most noteworthy things about this anchorage are the overwhelming friendliness of the locals and the state of our top-decks being deluged by volcanic ash. The Bloke who prides himself with his boat maintenance efforts, scrubbing with a toothbrush, wiping and polishing obsessively etc..., has almost been in his own molten meltdown state. Volcanic ash isn't bushfire ash or bulldust. It's not dust either. It's black grit, a little bit sparkly and highly abrasive!

Drifts of black grit piling up on the toe rail

The wind that made our trip possible from Ouvea to here is the the prevailing SE trade causing an unusually large amount of ash to fall in Port Resolution. Now that the wind is back to it's usual station, the deluge will be less. Perhaps we could even consider doing some laundry?

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Visiting Mt Yasur - An Active Volcano

Sitting on the 'Ring of Fire' Vanuatu is not short Volcanoes and because The Bloke loves me, he defied his natural instincts and agreed to take me to visit an active one. For some people this is a bucket list thing, for us it was a shame not to, considering we were passing by. In the first instance it dictated our arrival into Vanuatu and we required special permission. Mt Yasur is located on the southerly island of Tanna and the logical destination for our arrival was Port Resolution on east side of Tanna only 20km from the volcano. The west facing town of Lenakel is  the official entry port so emailed Vanuatu Customs (http://customsinlandrevenue.gov.vu/index.php/travellers/yacht-clearance) prior to our departure from Noumea to obtain permission. We were delighted to receive a confirmation email while passing through Ouvea in the Loyalty Islands en route. We were "good to go"! (We would later pay 4,600Vt for the pleasure, once we reached Port Vila)

View of Mt Yasur from the ash plane.

Arriving in Port Resolution to a bay already occupied by 24 other yachts, confirmed that I was not the only loony that thought a visit to an active volcano would be an interesting thing to do - it's big business and immensely popular. The New Zealand based Island Cruising Association (ICA) had incorporated a volcano tour in their Vanuatu Rally itinerary and accounted for 10 of the yachts in Port Resolution when we arrived.

The Bloke seated in the back of the ute with Stanley and Forfar

A dusty and bone jarring day.

The locals are very attentive of the arrival of every new visiting yacht and we didn't even need to visit the Port Resolution Yacht Club to find someone to arrange transport. Werri, who is very entrepreneurial and runs the 'Yacht Club' and associated holiday cottages, owns a twin cab utility vehicle and became the 'wheels' for our group of 8 - meaning that adding cousin Stanley to the passenger manifest was to make us 10 aboard in total. Lucky for me I was in the cabin while The Bloke rode 'coach class' in the tray with 4 others. A dusty and gritty day-long experience which included the long trip across the island (and ash plain) to Lenakel before our tour commenced at 4pm for the sunset volcano tour. There is also the option of a dawn or middle-of-the-day tour. The tour cost is 950Vt per person and is a fixed price payable in cash and part of the reason for our cross-island trip to Lenakal to obtain sufficient local currency. We had only 300AUD worth of Vt and needed to exchange whatever other cash we had at the bank (no ATM). Only the resort near the airport has the equipment to draw from overseas accounts and will take a 20% commission for the trouble!

Entry statement at the base of the volcano tour

Mt Yasur plays a significant part in local beliefs and culture and the entry statement to the visitor assembly area is flanked by carved totems. It also injects significant cash into their economy so that Tanna is considered a wealthy island. A roster of locals provide the personnel for dancing and guides, plus any owner of a twin cab ute in the district is expected to be available to provide transport.

Prior to being taken on a 10 minute ute ride up the base of the volcano to then ascend the final 200m on foot, we witnessed a traditional Custom Dance followed by a presentation of a flower garland signifying that the Chief had sought and been granted permission from the Gods to visit the crater.

   

Everyone received a floral garland ... Yes, even The Bloke struggling to look upbeat about what he's about to do.

Walking up. It was quite steep towards the top.

We were informed that we'd need warm clothing, a hat plus a torch. It was really cold up top and the hat was to help keep ash/grit from getting in our hair. We would be ending the tour after dark hence the torch to light our walk back to the car park. Although there was a letterbox to post a card from the volcano (what fun) we were unable to. They locals haven't yet worked out that they could sell them at the entrance when paying for the ticket!

   

Fun fact: the rocks in the above photo have been arranged by the local guides to create a path and delineate the 'safe' zone. There are many others randomly scattered about courtesy of the volcano's activity and are explosively delivered at 2,000C - probably a tad hotter than Mum's apple pies! 

The Bloke had trouble believing what he was doing and wondering how soon it would be before he could return to the vehicles waiting below to deliver us back to the reception area. It wasn't to be until after dark.

The volcano's activity is monitored by a number seismic stations and a 5 point scale applied. Levels 1-2 are deemed OK for visits to occur although a westerly wind will negate that as the 'ash' would blow directly over the viewing areas. At level 4, not only would tours be cancelled but villages would also be evacuated.

Every time the volcano vented it was weirdly compelling and I found myself drawn to lean in for a closer look. Not so the Bloke, who pleaded with me to "Come away!".

   

Daredevils silhouetted on the top ridge

At dusk, the really adventurous visitors were led up to a 3rd viewing vantage point for a better view of the magma in the crater. This way way beyond even my comfort zone. It was a steep climb along the narrow ridge and very windy. Half way along I had trouble even standing up so I took a few photos and returned to sit with The Bloke who was by this time, waiting with a group of other nervous people. One was a dentist with an volunteer dental team. He'd been up 15 times he said, but never left the more protected area or stood in any of the 'viewing' zones. He'd witnessed red hot rocks landing over the heads of observers in all 3 of the designated viewing zones and wouldn't proceed beyond this point. A ghoulish story was shared about a Japanese tourist who died on this very volcano a few years back, his torso severed and cauterized in two by a hot projectile rock!

What surprised us was that there was no appreciable radiated heat standing at the the top of crater; it didn't smell of sulphur, nor did the ground shake when there was a venting.

The Bloke was among the first to return to our vehicle for the trip back to the assembly area where a spread of cut fruit, biscuits and coconut waited. A few much stiffer nerve settling libations were gulped on return to Zofia!!

This fabulous photo was taken from the uppermost viewing zone by Forfar Petrie, SV Squander.

It's the 'money shot'!

Laying Your Limes on the Line

A vigorous overnight passage from Ouvea saw us arrive 'on schedule' for a 10 am anchoring. The Bloke's idea of leaving Ouvea at 4pm instead of stupid o'clock that night provided the luxury of a dusk exit on an outward tide from the lagoon followed by a slow start Eastwards.


We hadn't really guessed on the early part of the passage being so slow to start. Overnight - 29nm in the first 12 hours but we both got some sleep and we didn't get cranked up until about the time we'd originally planned to leave. So with 29nm to the good we just got faster and faster until we needed to slow the boat down! This gave a smoother ride as well as ensuring that our arrival into an uncertain anchorage would occur during the daylight. Really - 8-9 knots SOG (speed over ground) is bone jarring!

Dusk

Along the way at 11 pm an AiS target appeared. A sailing vessel called Risky Business. They were motoring north into a headwind. We were sailing east on a beam reach. It was 23 minutes before we'd likely collide. The sea-state pushed our headings this way and that. We radioed on channel 16 to check they could see us. They didn't seem to be adjusting their course and frustratingly they were not responding to any of our radio calls. Eventually, within 1 nm we shone our spotlight on our sails, started our motor in case we needed to take evasive action and then shone the spotlight on Risky Business. Happily they responded with a flash or two back. Great news they could see us. What was a bit disturbing is their choice to speed up and cross right in front of us - inside 200m. Risky Business indeed!

Dawn

Except for the growing sea-state, the Risky Business encounter was the most excitement the night would deliver. By dawn we were sailing past the southern end of Tanna and being entertained by breaching whales closer to shore.

Vanuatu landfall

We checked our waypoints on entry to Port Resolution by doing a couple of donuts outside the anchorage. We were watched on AIS by friends of Debbie and Matt (La Jorja) and received a welcoming and informative radio call from Ann and Cran from Lettin' Go. 24 other yachts were already in the bay, most as part of a rally organised by the Island Cruising Association.

The joy of dropping anchor following a passage and then having an 'anchor dram' is something you can photograph. It is then followed by a deep and motionless sleep. As a rule. But today we had a diversion.


Anchoring was straightforward. Water depth of 4m in volcanic mud. Holding seems good even if the swell works it's way in. Nice looking surroundings and local men in dugout canoes fishing here and there. We hadn't counted on an early visitor. The locals appear very friendly. They waive and smile as they do so. A charming change.

Imagine our surprise though when a man in a dugout canoe paddled up and asked to hold onto our boat. His grin was bigger that a Cheshire cat's. Would we like some limes he asked. No charge. In exchange could we charge his mobile phone and spare battery?
Done deal. He'll paddle back after lunch to collect his kit. The juxtaposition of technologies is hilarious.





Gin and tonic tonight is going to be very aromatic with these little beauties.

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